Kampong Thom is Cambodia's second
largest province by area. Its capital is named Kampong
Thom, a picturesque town on the banks of the Stung Saen
River. The Sambor temple and Prei Kuk temple are the two
main temples in Kompong Thom as well as other less
significant Angkorian sites. Kompong Thom was a very
powerful capital in Southeast Asia during the Funan
period. Later on, during the French rule, the province
was home to a large group named the Stieng, but they
have long been assimilated into Khmer society.
‘Kampong Pos Thom’ was the original name of the present
called ‘Kampong Thom’. Because originally long time ago,
at the dock of the Sen River next to a big natural lake,
there was a big cave with a pair of big snakes inside.
The people living around this area usually saw these big
snakes every Buddhist Holiday. Time after that, the
snakes disappeared, and the people of that area called
it Kampong Pos Thom. Then, only short words ‘Kampong
Thom’. During the French colony in Cambodia, the French
ruled and divided Cambodian territory into provinces,
and named them according to the spoken words of the
people ‘Kampong Thom Province’.
The provincial capital Kampong Thom is another bustling
town on the banks of the Stung Sen River. The town
itself is strategically located on the National Highway
No 6 between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Its more a
stopover to have a break from driving long distances or
to eat something on the way to Siem Reap or Phnom Penh,
than a very touristic place. Despite the town itself
people come to explore the pre-Angkorian Chenla capital
Sambor Prei Kuk, the remote temples of Preah Khan and
Prasat Preah Vihear.
Kampong Thom is a
province located at the
central point of the
Kingdom of Cambodia. The
province has a total
land area of
15,061square kilometres
divided into 8
districts, 81 communes
and 737 villages. The
province borders in the
North with Preah Vihear
and Siem Reap, to the
East with Kratie, to the
South with Kampong Cham
and to the West with
Kampong Chhnang.
The province is divided
into two parts:
- Eastern part of
National Road 6: Covers
70% surface consisting
of forests and plateaus,
which are rich in
natural resources for a
good and profitable
agriculture, forestry
and animal husbandry.
- Western part of
National Road 6: Covers
30% surface consisting
of plain area extending
to the famous Tonle Sap
Lake. This area is one
of the best areas in
Cambodia for rice
cultivation and fishing
to support the needs of
the province and to
additionaly export them
to other areas or
Countries. Two of the
three core areas in
Tonle Sap Biosphere
Reserve are located in
Kampong Thom: Boeng
Chhmar (14,560
hectares), and Stung
Saen (6,355 hectares).
How to get there
Bus:
The province has a very
basic road network,
which links Phnom Penh
(165km) and Siem Reap
(150km) with the
National Highway No 6,
and the separate
National Road 64 to
Preah Vihear province
with a distance of 126
km. After a rebuild of
the former dust road
that was long overdue,
this is now one of the
best roads in the
Country. There is lots
of bus companies going
from Phnom Penh to Siem
Reap or back, so while
they pass Kampong Thom
its easy to drop off
there. The companies
such as Sorya (near
Central Marlket), G.S.T.
or Capitol (Str. 182) go
usually 7am, 8am, 9am
and again midday 12am,
1pm, 2pm to Siem Reap.
Prices to Kampong Thom
are between US$1.5-2.5.
Share Taxi:
If you want to shorten
the time spend on the
trip to Kampong Thom you
may take on of the share
taxis, mostly leaving
near the central market.
As they aren’t really
the comfortable version
of travelling you’ll
even have to pay more as
with the bus (approx.
US$3-6).
Phnom Penh to Kampong
Thom 12,000riel
(Same in reverse)
Kampong Thom to Siem
Reap 15,000riel
(5-6 hours)
Kampong Thom to T’beng
Meanchey (4-6 hours)
26,000riel
Motorcycle Touring Info:
Phnom Penh to Kampong
Thom
Security in all
directions is no longer
a problem. As mentioned
earlier, the road from
Phnom Penh is in good
shape. Starting at the
Japanese Bridge in Phnom
Penh, head out National
Highway No 6 to Skon,
where you go left at the
traffic circle (it has a
statue of kids holding a
bird). This takes you
the rest the way.
Kampong Thom to Siem
Reap
It’s a 145 km ride, with
the road in nice shape
for a while after you
leave Kampong Thom town,
then it gets a little
rougher, but much
re-grading work has been
done. It’s not like it
used to be; bomb crater
holes used to be so deep
that during the rainy
season one could have a
family picnic at a
crater’s shoreline.
The Kampong Thom-T’beng
Meanchey (See warning
below)
To take the 137 km
journey, you follow
Highway 6 toward Siem
Reap for 5 km to the
fork in the road. A sign
in English will point to
the right side of the
fork for TM Chey (T’beng
Meanchey town, Preah
Vihear Province) down on
Highway No 12. The road
here is much improved,
as there has been a lot
of resurfacing done to
accommodate the droves
of logging trucks
heading to and from
Preah Vihear province.
The downside of the
easier road is the dust
that the trucks whip up
as they chug along the
road. It can be a real
hazard as the thick dust
clouds practically blind
you from seeing possible
oncoming traffic when
you want to pass these
slow moving vehicles.
The final 37 km
stretch through the
mountains and into
T’beng Meanchey is still
tough going. This is how
the entire road used to
be - bomb craters,
erosion galleys, and
rocks are all here for
your motorcycle fun. It
can actually be
enjoyable stretch,
because the scenery is
brilliant. This stretch
can also be done during
the rainy season, though
the road may be slippery
and dotted with small
mud ponds after heavy
rains. Enjoy it.
Where to Eat
Aruneas Guesthouse & Restaurant:
This is probably the most popular spot to eat in town,
located beneath Arunras Guesthouse. They serve good
Western, Chinese and Khmer food at cheap prices, which
of course is why they are popular. An English menu and
staff that can speak the language are other nice
features.
Neak Meas Hotel & Restaurant:
This restaurant serve good Chinese and Khmer food in the
morning and throughout the day until the nightclub kicks
in around 8:30pm.
Monorom Restaurant:
This restaurant, crowded by lots of locals is situated
next to the Mittapheap Hotel. Its quite popular on the
National Highway No 6 to the North and especially for
its breakfast.
9 Makara Restaurant:
Just north of the river bridge on the east side of
Highway No 6 is a row of three restaurants, with the
middle one being 9 Makara Restaurant and Nightclub. The
restaurants are enclosed and serve Khmer and Chinese
fare, with beer girls there to greet you in the evening.
“Restaurant Row” of Kampong Thom:
About a kilometer toward Phnom Penh on Highway No 6 is
Kampong Thom’s version of “Restaurant Row” outside of
Phnom Penh. There are a number of Khmer and Chinese food
restaurants on both side of the highway that get rolling
in the evening and have the Cambodian requirement of
beer girls on hand.
Reaksmay Restaurant:
One of the first restaurants you come across at
“Restaurant Row” is this new and upscale place. It’s
fairly fancy for Kampong Thom. They serve up a bit of
Western food to go along with the Khmer and Chinese fare
and it’s the home of the fancy-pants beer girl of
Kampong Thom.
Super Soup Restaurant at the Stung Sen Royal Hotel.
The Super Soup restaurant (try saying that quickly ten
times) is everything that it’s billed to be a soup
restaurant.
Cheap Food Stands. There are simple rice and noodle
dish stands in front of the market at the east side.
Arunras Guesthouse:
(tel: 0961238)
A clean, well-run and
friendly place it has
and attached Asian bath
and is good value at
US$3. The mototaxi
drivers who can take you
to Sambor Prei Kok hang
out in front and the
restaurant here is a
popular place to eat.
This guesthouse is
suposingly the most
popular place for budget
travellers in town. The
rooms include TV and a
Western bath (US$3) and
an additional air-con if
required (US$8).
Arunras Hotel: (tel:
0961294)
This place was formerly
called Neak Meas Hotel.
The roof of this
five-story building
represents the highest
point in Kampong Thom
and affords some nice
views of the town the
countryside and Santuk
Mountain. There are also
nice wrap-around
terraces on each floor,
and the rooms on the
third floor south side
have a good view, making
it a decent spot to
chill out with a cool
drink. Clean rooms with
a/c, TV, and double bed
are US$10. For a room on
the first floor with hot
water add US$5. The
nightclub downstairs
closes at 11 pm so it’s
not much of a problem.
If you like to turn in
early get a room at the
back on the third floor.
There is also a
restaurant in the hotel.
Its probably the best
deal in town.
Stung Sen Royal
Garden Hotel: (tel:
09261228)
It’s named after the
river that is next too.
This is another top spot
in town. The rooms come
fully furnished and the
gargantuan suites are a
good investment for an
extra 5 bucks. All rooms
have a/c, TV, fridge,
Western bath and hot
water shower. Depending
on the room size, they
go for US$20-25.
Sambor Prey Kuk
Hotel: (tel: 0961359)
It is definitely not one
of the best hotels, but
still a good fortune for
budget travellers, who
like it a bit older for
less money. The rooms
are well equipped with
Western bath and fan or
air-con. Some rooms have
TV. The prices range
from US$4-8 (without
air-con) and from
US$6-10 (including
air-con).
Vimeansuor
Guesthouse:
Business must be good,
as they have been
putting up an addition.
It’s a very clean place
with nice rooms,
attached Western bath
and ceiling fan for
US$6.
Mohalleap
Guesthouse:
It’s another clean
place with an Asian
bath and fan room
going for US$3.
Visalsok, Soksan and
Penh Chet
Guesthouses:
These three are all
similar with small
rooms and share bath
going from between
US$1 to about 10.000
riel. The cleaning
leaves a lot to be
desired.
Where to stay
Stone
Handicraft:
Located at Ka Kos
Village, Ka Kos Commune,
Santhuk District in
16-km distance from
Provincial Town of
Kampong Thom on National
Highway No 6. The
craftsmen take the rocks
from the food of Santhuk
Mountain to make statues
and various figures for
house decoration. This
stone handicraft is
served for domestically
and internationally
target markets. Beside
stone handicraft,
Kampong Thom has other
handicrafts like Krama,
Silk shirts, traditional
Khmer clothing and
handbags. There is also
the common markets with
all you may need (food,
garments, etc.).
Where to see
Phnom Santuk (Santuk
Mountain)
Phnom Santok is a cultural and natural site
located in Ko Koh village, Ko Koh commune,
Santuk district, about 17 kilometers south of
Kampong Thom provincial town. The site include
four mountains: Phnom Srah Kmao or Phnom Tbeng,
Phnom Penhum or Phnom Kraper, Phnom Champa and
Phnom Santuk.
Since the ancient time to the present, Phnom
Santuk Mountain has been called in many names as
below:
- Phnom Thom (in history)
- Phnom Arth Santuk (In history)
- Phnom Chorm Chong Kiri
- Phnom Krop Tuk
- Phnom Preah Bat Chann Tuk
The ancient heritages on the top of the
mountain:
- Many Buddha statues were carved from great
mountain rock including three big Buddha statues
reaching Nirvana, each has more than 10-meter
length.
- Prasat Touch of pyramid shape, made of
sandstone, has three stories and three-meter
height, and is located next to the ancient
wooden temple (presently, it is made of cement)
with a rectangular pond (10m x 4m).
- Preah Bat Chann Tuk statue was carved on the
stone shaped as food of a sacred human, and
there are many other small sculptures. By the
stories, the construction and the statues were
erected during the reign of Preah Ponhea Dharma
Reacha (1474-1494) and have been maintained
until now.
Phnom Santuk has changed names to Chorn Chong
Kiri and Phnom Krop Tuk. Chan Dare or Chan Chare
are called two pieces of stone by local people
that join all together in marked symbol and made
in small hole, the passenger arrived there, they
always dropped cash coins (ancient coins) into
this small hole. When cash coins was dropped in,
it make soft weak voice like a voice of the
birds sing or music with happiness. So they did
that since ancient period.
Prasat Andet Temple
Prasat Andet is located about 27 kilometers
northwest of Provincial Town of Kampong Thom, in
Prasat Village, Sankor Commune, Kampong Svay
District, Kampong Thom Province. The temple was
built in second half of 7th century (627-707)
during the reign of king Jayavarman I to
dedicate to God Hirihara, in Kampong Preah style
and made of brick with masonry, laterite and
sandstone. Prasat Andet had isolated plan, built
on a 5.30-meter height artificial hill, and was
form in rectangular shape with 7.50-meter
length, 5.50-meter width and 1-meter thick
(interior to exterior). It was facing to the
East. The lintel of Prasat Andet was carved in
the garlands and carefully done in the
traditional khmer style.
The coronet (2.22 lengths) was ornamented around
by the rings decorated, and at between of the
rings we decorated with garland and bulb flowers
surrounded, which are joining each other by the
end of the decorations. In original former time,
this temple contained Harihara Statue standing
on a decorative royal throne, and the statue was
brought to be kept at Phnom Penh National
Museum. The Harihara statue is a body side’s
Siva and another body side’s Vinu. The framed
door had 1 m width, 2m height and 0.20m thick.
On the northern framed door, we saw the marks of
a cloven hoof of tiger cat that used to go to
the upper box of the door, which remained the
marks until now.
Bird Sanctuary of Boeng Tonle Chmar:
Boeng Chmar contains fishing lot 5 and lot 6,
and is 30km far from Stoung District town of
Kampong Thom Province, there were villages of
Nesat, Kamong Kdei, Svay Kor, Mo Doung, Kampong
Bradom and Msa Trang Tboung in Peam Bang
Commune. The people living in this area with
floating houses that are moving up and down
according to the water levels in the jungle and
flooded forest. The bird sanctuary of Boeng
Chmar covers a land area of 400 hectares having
an interconnecting network of water channels
along the bank of Boeng Kla Lake, rich in
flooded forests. This area is connected by two
big river tributaries (Stoung and Stung Chik
Kreng) flowing down to Boeng Chmar. Beong Chmar
is the sanctuary for many kinds of birds.
Prasat Kok Rokar (Preah
Theat)
Prasat Kok Rokar is located in Rokar Phum,
Srayov Commune, Stung Sen District, Kampong Thom
province in a 14-km distance from Provincial
Town of Kampong Thom. The temple was built of
sandstone and laterite in Khleng style at the
end of 11th century during the reign of king
Suryavarman I to dedicate to Siva.
This isolated sanctuary (dimension: 6m x 5m; 8m
height) was built on the hill and faced to the
east. The body of the central temple has conical
form with porches opening to the east, and a
door reached from the eastern entrance (three
other doors were the false doors). The diamond
column has octagonal forms, and the three
lintels have various forms. Based on the study
to the site, the sanctuary was formed in
rectangular shape. The outside rampart has 25m x
25m size and Gopura from the four directions
which jointed to the surrounding laterite
rampart. Outside the rampart, there were likely
moats surrounded as we saw some marks remain
until now. In observation to the temple’s court,
there were lintels and inscriptions available at
the surrounding. The lintels has various style
some in Sambor Prei Kuk, some in Prei Khmeng and
some in Kulen style etc. This didn’t mean that
the artists built the mixed styles. According to
the elderly resident there said that during the
French colony in Cambodia, these ancient objects
were brought from other temples to gather here
in preparing to break into small parts that
would then be used to pave the roads, but they
didn’t construct the roads yet due to the war
happened in the Country that why these ancient
objects remained there.
On the hill 1km from the temple, where they held
midnight ceremony every full moon day with
making virgin girls dancing around the fired
place to pray for the rain. This ceremony could
be participated by virgin girls only.
Prasat Kuhak Nokor
Prasat Kuhak Nokor is located in Trodork Poung
Village, Pong Ror Commune, Baray District,
Kampong Thom Province and is in the complex of
Wat Kuhak Nokor (Buddhist Pagoda). To reach
there, passenger can take all kinds of vehicle
on National Road 6, then turn west through the
gate of Kuhak Nokor pagoda in a distance of 2km.
It is 79km from Provincial Town of Kampong Thom.
These sanctuaries were built on the flat ground,
on a square terrace made of laterite and
sandstone facing to the East with the rampart
surrounding. This rampart has a 35m-length (East
to West) and a 25m-width (North to South). There
is surrounding rampart of one meter height and
0.8 meter thick with two gateways: Eastern
gateway is 9m height divided into 3 rooms, and
western gateway is small and has square shape.
The structures of the buildings are mixed, made
of laterite and the decoration of sandstone.
East of the temple, there are 2 ponds-the small
one has about one-meter depth,45-meter length
and 20-meter width, and the big one has
160-meter length, 88-meter width and more than
one-meter depth.
Prasat Kuhak Nokor comprises:
- The throne is square shape, made of sandstone
and decorated by lotus flowers and
pointed-diamond style, and has square hole at
the middle.
- A male standing statue remains from thigh to
shoulder.
- A male standing statue remains from thigh to
the navel.
- A male coiling statue is difficult to be
identified as the statue broke the end of the
arm and the sole of the foot (local people
called the statue ‘Neak Ta Bark Kor’.
Prasat Kuhak Nokor was built in 10th -11th
century by the king Suryavarman I (1002-1050).
But in the same year (1002), another document
said there was a king named Preah Bat
Jayviravarman who who was also on throne
(1002-1010). The two kings claimed that they
were on throne at the same year, this leading to
war between king and king until 1006. Then the
king Suryavarman I conquered Yasodharpura city,
however the war still lasted for 04 years to
end. In 1010, the king Suryavarman I gained
success over the entire territory and had full
power in the country.
Preah Bat Chan Tuk or
Buddha statue
- Was built by King Ang Chan I (16th century).
- King Baksei Chamkrong built a wooden temple on
Phnom San Tuk at the same year.
- Sculptures carved on large ancient stone with
many scenes of story.
- Buddha statue reaching Nirvanawas carved on
larges-stone since 16th century.
Prey Pros
Prey Pros is a natural and cultural site located
at Prey Pros Village, Prey Preal Commune,
Kampong Svay District in approximate 16-km
distance northwest of Provincial Town of
Kampong. The site cover an area of 2 million
square meters and includes a river (4,000-meter
length and 30-meter width) which is rich in
Domrei fish. The site is a venue for foot races,
bicycle races, and other games during national
festivals. In addition, the provincial tourists’
office has organized other recreational
activities such as boating, fishing and
swimming, and has built resting cottage where
food and drinks are sold. The view from Prey
Pros is beautiful and enchanting, while the wind
which blows across the river will cool and
refresh the hot and tired tourists.
Sambo Prey Kuk
Sambo Preykuk is a cultural
and historical site located in Sambo village,
Sambo commune, Prasat Sambo district, about 25
kilometers northeast of Kampong Thom provincial
town. The site was once an old capital named
Isanapura and a religious center for the worship
of Shiva Brahmanism.
Many temples were built in Sambo Preykuk during
the reign of King Isanavarman I (AD 616- 635) in
the 7th century. The temples of Sambo Preykuk
constructed of solid brick, laterite and
sandstone and decorated by bas-reliefs. The
lintel, pillars and the door frames are all made
of sandstone. So far, 140 temples have been
discovered in the forest. Sambo Preykuk temples
are divided into four main groups:
The Central Temple
The central temple is called Tor temple, or the
lion temple. There are sealed doors on three
sides and a real door that opens on the north
side. On each side is a set of stair between two
statues of kneeling lions. There are a number of
small temples west of lion temple. The lion
temple was built in 9th century.
The Northern Temple
The northern temples are called mid-Sambo
temples and are surrounded by many small
temples.
The Southern Temples
The southern temples are called Yeay Poan
temples. They, too, are surrounded by many
temples. There are two ramparts, which the inner
rampart has four gopuras (getaway) on each side.
This site was a former capital.
Prasat Yeay Poan Group comprised a total of 22
sanctuaries (5 have octagonal shapes) with two
wall rampart, and was built of brick, masonry,
laterite and sandstone in rectangular from in
7th century (600-635) during the reign of
Isanavarman I to dedicated to Shiva. They were
built on a hill with Gopura from the eastern and
western entrances joining to an outside laterite
rampart. The inner rampart reached by gateways
from the four directions and joined to the brick
rampart carved in various clustering figures.
Along the sanctuary contained the eastern and
western Gopura joined to the laterite rampart
(304m x 274m or 83,296 square-meter surface).
Gopura contained framed door with diamond
columns and a lintel built of sandstone. Eastern
Gopura contained a buried large inscription
(size: 2.41m x 0,9m x 0,15) inscribed with 17
lines of script. This inscription was brought to
be kept in Kampong Thom Museum.
Kraol Romeas Temples
Kraol Romeas temples are located about 2
kilometers north of Sambo Preykuk. All were
built of brick, except the temple to the west,
which is made of laterite.
To conserve the temples, three areas are
designated as protected sites for the purpose of
conserving the temples. They r are marked as
follows:
- First Area: the first area covers 30 meters
outside the rampart.
- Second Area: the second area covers 300 meters
outside the first area.
- Third Area: the third area covers 1,500 meters
outside the second area.
Wat Kampong Thom
Wat Kampong Thom, also known as Wat
Indrisamavora, is located in Kdei village,
Preykahu commune, Stung Sen district, about 1
kilometer from the provincial town. This old
temple is a holy place that covers 2,053 square
meters. Statues related to the Buddha story can
be found in the pagoda. The pagoda fences are
painted in many different colors and styles. The
pagoda offers a cool place for visitors to
relax, especially during festivals.
Wat Kdei Deum
Wat Kdei Deum is located in Kampong Chen village,
Kampong Chen Tbong commune, Storng district about 52
kilometers northwest of the provincial town. A holy
place, the features two ponds and includes an old temple
similar in style to Banteay Srei temple in Siem Reap
Wat Prasat
Located in Prasat Village, Prasat Commune, Santuk
District, Kampong Thom Province. This temple located in
a 31 kilometers district from Provincial Town of Kampong
Thom, and there is road from the southern direction of
500-meter length. This temple was built of brick,
masonry and sandstone in 8th century (706) with Kampong
Preah style to dedicate to Siva. It was a sanctuary
built temple on the flat terrace without the false door
and faced to the east. In the ancient period, the door
were made by two wooden boards-one carved with
sculptures of male divinities at another one carved with
female divinities. The southern framed door was
inscribed with five lines of inscription, and its back
was mostly erode. The lintel was ornamented by the
garlands; the diamond column we carved with carousing
motifs; and the upper corner of the temple contained the
segments of Linga and Yoni. Southeast of the temple,
there were other two more temples (at present, they
became the small hills). South of the large temple, were
was a hill called Toul Samrong or Toul Nak Ta Samrong;
and east of this hill, there was a Pou tree in which the
local people call Toul Nak Ta Deum Pou (the hill of the
body tree spirit). In ancient time, this place was the
former royal palace where the royal valuable were kept.
Then it was excavated and the valuables were taken away
during the French colony. This sanctuary was in
seriously ruined condition, in 1996 the brick of the
southern and western towers dropped down due to the
trees growing and the strong wind blowing on them.
Besides, there was lack of conservation and protection
leading to the serious damages caused by nature and aged
existence at the sanctuary especially by the ignorant
people.
Closed against the sanctuary, where the Buddhism monks
constructed the new temple. This could caused the
damages to the ancient sanctuary. Beside the Prasat Phum
Prasat, there was an inscription buried into the ground
which its upper part was inscribed with six lines of
Sanskrit scripts. This inscription was found at six
kilometers near the Police Post on National Road 6.