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www.hotsia.com > Combodai > Takeo
 

Takeo province is often referred to as the cradle of Cambodian civilisation Takeo province has several important pre-Angkorian sites built between the 5th and the 8th century. The provincial capital, Takeo town is an easygoing place that possesses a fair amount of natural and manmade beauty. The natural beauty is in the Scenic River and lake area that faces a pleasant town parkway. The low-lying area seems to include much of the surrounding province area, which is probably why a kingdom that once had its heart here was referred to as Water Chenla. There seems to be water everywhere in the surrounding countryside during the rainy season.


The man-made beauty mostly comes from a series of canals and waterways that were cut through the surrounding countryside, many a very long time ago, connecting towns, villages, rivers and Vietnam. Nearby Angkor Borei town (connected by water to Takeo town) may have been the heart of the Funan Empire, which is called the Cradle of Khmer Civilization by Cambodians. Much older than Angkor, the Funan empire had its heyday between the 1st and 6th centuries and stretched across a vast area, from South Vietnam through Thailand, down through Malaysia and into Indonesia. Bold, silver and silks were traded in abundance in the kingdom, or, as some say, the series of fiefdoms.

Although Cambodians claim Funan was created by Khmers, neighbouring Vietnam argues that they were the people of origin. Archaeologists from the University of Hawaii of the USA have made research trips to Angkor Borei in an attempt to piece together the history and story, and story, as well as relics, of the Funan period. In an odd recent twist, Reuters News Service reported in early November 1999 that locals saw the research team digging up ancient relics and figured the stuff must be valuable, so they started digging and looting objects from the area. Fortunately, the Cambodian government seems to be moving in on the problem quickly to try to save what they can of this important piece of Khmer heritage.

 

That was not the first time the locals have created problems in the piecing together of ancient history. Much of what did remain in the form of ancient ruins in Angkor Borei was destroyed not too long ago in the modern past. The officials that runs the museum thats dedicated to the history of the Funan empire told me that much of what was still standing from this period (from parts of ancient walls to partial structures) was thought to be useless by locals and was bulldozed and razed to make way for more useful modern day structures! Talk about having a bad track record. Fortunately artifacts and history have been put together in the museum.

Takeo Province is full of other interesting sights as well and because of the short distance and good road from Phnom Penh, all are great day trips. Some sights can be combined in a day trip. If you have a bit more time, spend an evening in Takeo town and take in all the sights. There is a pleasant little place to stay overlooking the river and lake area.

Takeo province is 3,563 square kilometres big. Its located in the South of the country bordering to the North and East with Kandal, to the West with Kampong Speu and Kampot and to the South with Vietnam. The low-lying area seems to include much of the surrounding province area, which is probably why a kingdom that once had its heart here was referred to as Water Chenla. There seems to be water everywhere in the surrounding countryside during the rainy season.

Therefore the province consists of the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations. The province also features one of the biggest rivers of the country (symbolizing the provincial border to the East), the Tonle Bassac (also known as the Red River).
 

 

How to get there

Bus:
Phnom Penh and Takeo province are linked by the National Highway No 2, which remains in reasonable condition with a few potholes to slow the velocity down. Hour Lean and PPPT bus companies both run air-con buses between Phnom Penh and Takeo (6000riel, 2hours, 77km). They leave from the Central Station just southwest from the Central Market in PP. Leaving of to PP from Takeo you may find the buses in front of the Phsar Leu. Both buses have to pass Tonl Bati and Phnom Chisor, both interesting sides of attraction.

Share Taxis/Moto:
The price from PP by share taxi is around 6000riel, by minibus around 3000riel. Travellers continuing by road to Kampot should take a moto (5000riel) for the 13km journey Angk Tasaom and then arrange a seat in a minibus or share taxi (5000riel) on to Kampot.
For 1000 riel you can get anywhere in town. The daily rate is US$ 5 plus fuel for distant sights.

Motorbike Info:
Phnom Penh and Takeo province are linked by the National Highway No 2, which remains in reasonable condition with a few potholes to slow the velocity down. This is a maximum 2 hours ride for merit skilled motorbikers.
If your motorcycle has a mechanic problem, head back to Phnom Penh, as its only an hour away. Call your rental outfit in Phnom Penh (always carry theft rental agreement) and they will come down to perform motorcycle surgery or haul the bike back to Phnom Penh.
 

 

Where to eat

There are a couple of decent Khmer food restaurants near the waterfront, after the canal that heads to Vietnam, Angkor Borei and Phnom Da. You may also find plenty of cookeries in the area around the Independence Monument. By night this is the place to snack on Cambodian desserts or enjoy a tukalok (fruitshake). And as for the night scene, there just isnt much going on in Takeo town your best bet is to take it easy and remember that Phnom Penh is only an hour away.

Apsara Restaurant:
This is an alternative spot for a good Cambodian meal during the dry season, when this part of the town is less stinky than the area near the water. It has an English menu and some tasty soups are a worth a recommendation.

Restaurant Stung Takeo:
This place is built on stilts, as the whole area becomes a giant lake during the wet season. The restaurant overlooks the canal to Angkor Borei, and its one of the most popular lunch stops in town. Its a good place to tuck into some Khmer food before making a trip to Angkor Borei and Phnom Da.

Doun Keo Restaurant:
This place is one of the first restaurants that you encounter as you enter Takeo from Phnom Penh. Its a friendly simple place, which feature rather decent Khmer and Chinese food.


 

Where to stay

There are some reasonable options to get your head on a bed in Takeo, although the proximity of Phnom Penh means that few travellers actually spend a night here. Backpacker options could also be found at the empty Phsar Nat (also overlooking).

Mittapheap Hotel: (tel: 032/931205)
This hotel might be an option for those who have a particular attraction to Cambodian Independence Monuments, as this one overlooks Takeos. There is good cheap food nearby, a fortune. Dont be put of by the old house at the front, s the owners have added a new wing in a leafy green garden at the back, with the smartest air-con rooms in town. Prices range from $5-10.

Angkor Borei Guesthouse: (tel: 032/931340)
Thats a friendly family-run place, which has a bewildering array of rooms available and all at the same price. Some of them are bigger, some are smaller, some have TV and air-con, some dont, but in the interest of equality everyone pays the same. Have a look before, than choose.

Boeung Takeo Guesthouse: (tel: 032/931306)
This is likely the best place in town, overlooking the lake. All rooms are essentially the same (bath, fan, TV), but for $10 you can get an air-con breeze. Ask for a room with a view, as it wont be more expensive. Prices from $5-10.

Phnom Sonlong Guesthouse: (tel: 032/931404)
This guesthouse is right next door to the Angkor Borei and offers more or less the same array and equipment as the Ankor Borei, but is a little less in the price. Some rooms have only one bed, check it out before. Some of the staffs speak good English.

Shopping

As it is quite common in Cambodia even small cities, such as Takeo have at least one bigger market (some small marts too). So you may also find a market in Takeo centre, which is a busy area with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and packed products (also a lot from Vietnam). Most of the food and drink shops are surrounding the market.

Where to see

Angkor Borie
Angkor Borie is a town in the area of several ruins and archaeological digs. The area contains artifacts dating from the Funan (4th/5th century) and Water Chenla (8th century) as well as the later Angkorian period. The prasat ruins on top of nearby Phnom Da are 11th century Angkorian. There is a smalll museum in the town.
 

Chruos Phaork
Chruos Phaork is located in Pou Village, Preah Bat Choan Chum Commune, Kiri ong District 44 kilometers (1h:6mn) from Provincial Town. It is the Nature Wildlife and Preserves.
 

Chup Pol Temple
Chup Pol Temple is located in Doun Peaeng Village, Baray Commune, Doun Kae District, about 3 kilometers (4mn) from Provincial Town. It is the Historical Sites and Buildings.
 

Museum
Museum is located in Takeo province, there is a museum located at Ang Kor Bo Rey District. The museum is just built under auspice of EU organization for keeping and displaying status and ancient objects of Phnom Da in 6th century for tourists and researchers.
 

Neang Khmao Temple
Neang Khmao temple is located in Rovieng commune, Samrong district, off National Road 2, about 27 kilometers north of Takeo provincial town or about 52 kilometers south of Phnom Penh. This temple is inside Wat Neang Khmao.

Constructed of sandstone and brick in the style of Koh Ker, the temple was built by King Jayavarman IV (AD 921-941) in the 10th century for the worship of Brahmanism. The site originally consisted of three temples built side by side, however, only two are still standing, and both are heavily damaged.

 

Phnom Ba Yong
Phnom Bayang is located in Por Rorng village, Preah Bat Choan Chum commune, Kirivong district, about 43 kilometers south of Takeo provincial town or about 121 kilometers south of Phnom Penh. From Phnom Penh, take National Road 2 via Bati, Sam Rong, Daun Keo and Trang districts.

Bayang temple was built between AD 615 and 635 by King Pavavarman II on the top of Phnom Bayong, a 313-meterhigh mountain. Its diameter is 13 meters by 9 meters and it is 12 meters high. Constructed of laterite, brick and other stones, it is heavily damaged. Pieces of the temple litter the
ground; the roof has collapsed, and the laterite rampart has been damaged.

Bayang temple is a historical site that attracts both foreigners and Cambodians doing research about their ancestors. The road to the mountain, however, is old and difficult to access in the thick forest. The temple is reachable by climbing 390 steps. In addition to Bayang, there are four other temples on the mountain-Preah Kor temple, North Kanang temple, East Kanang temple and Kampoul Kanang temple. All are for Brahman worship and contain a Silva lingam.

Visitors to the site will come to understand how Cambodian history and culture was influenced by the outside world. Because without access to the mountain, however, the only people who will visit the site are researchers studying Cambodian history.

In Kirivong District, there is a stream, Pha Oak, which flows 1,000 meters from its source to where people congregate to swim or bathe. The stream is 6 meters wide during the rainy season and 2 meters wide during the dry season. The sound of the water falling from the mountaintop is almost musical, and the scenery is beautiful.
 

Phnom Chiso (Chiso Mountain)
Phnom Chiso is a historical site located in Sia village, Rovieng commune, Samrong district, about 62 kilometers south of Phnom Penh or 27 kilometers north of Takeo provincial town. To reach the site, take National Road 2 to Bati district and Neang Khmao temple. Turn right at the sign for the site and head down the dirt trial for 5 more kilometers. Phnom Chiso is 13O-meter-high mountain.

Phnom Chiso temple was built in the early 11th century by King Suryavarman I (AD 1002-1050), who practiced Brahmanism. Constructed of sandstone and other stones, it is 60 meters long and 50 meters wide and sits atop a mountain. The temple is surrounded by two galleries. The first gallery is 60 meters long on each side. The second, smaller gallery, is in the middle, where there is the main worship place with two doors and a wooden statue. There are beautiful sculptures on the lintel and the pillars.

Phnom Chiso Pagoda was built in 1917, destroyed by war during the 1970s and rebuilt in 1979. Behind it is a hall called Thammasaphea, kof and a worship place. There is an ancient water tank made of concrete. People usually climb the staircase on the west side of the mountain, which has 390 steps and descend by the south side staircase, which has 408 steps. Another set of stairs in front of the temple links the temple to Sen Chhmos temple, Sen Phouvang temple and Tonie Om, a lake considered sacred by Brahmans and used for washing away sins. A large rock yard nearby about 100 meters long and 80 meters was once the site of several other temples, but only parts of these temples remain standing.

In addition, there is a mountain cave, Vimean Chan, located about 150 meters south of the temple. It is a quiet place for Brahmans or ascetics to meditate. During the Americans' war with Vietnam, the site was bombed, dislodging several large rocks that block the entrance to the cave today.

Hun Sen Phnom Chiso Agricultural and Tourist site is located in Samrong, Bati and Prey Kabas districts. It includes a 513 hectare paddy rice field of dry rice, a 1,386 hectares field of wet rice and three water basins - Thnos Ta Kong, Tuol Lork and Sen Pea Ream.

Phnom Chiso is very popular with visitors, especially during festivals, when it is very crowded. The top of the mountain affords visitors a panoramic view of Takeo Province rice paddies stretching for kilometers.

 

Phnom Da
Phnom Da is located in Prek Ta Phor village, Kork Thalork commune, Angkor Borei district, about 24 kilometers east of Takeo provincial town by water canal or about 102 kilometers south of Phnom Penh by the road. This part of the country is flooded six months of the year, during the rainy
season, and dry the rest of the year.

Phnom Da is a cultural, historical site that has been renovated to provide visitors a place to relax or research Cambodian history. The scenery is beautiful all year. In the rainy season, there is a vast water basin that produces lush, green rice paddies during the dry season.

Phnom Da temple was built on the top of a small hill in 6th century by King Rutravarman, who reigned during the Norkor Phnom period, according to the French historian Mibreno. The temple is 12 meters square and 18 meters high. It was constructed of laterite, brick and sandstone. A Brahman temple, it faces north towards Norkor Kork Thalork, which was the capital of Nokor Phnom at the time the temple was built. There is no rampart.

The temple's peak is damaged, and a sculpture depicting the story of Churning of the Ocean of Milk(Cambodian calls Ko Samutra Teuk Dos) has been broken into two parts. A lintel illustrates the figure of sleeping Vishnu. There are false doors on three sides and a real door that opens on the north side.

In the flank of the hill are five man-made caves that reflect the style of Phnom Da, which is similar to India style. In each cave, there is a Shiva lingam and Uma yoni, objects that Brahmans worship. During the Pol Pot regime, between 1975 and 1979, the caves were used as cremation places by the Khmer Rouge.

About 300 meters southwest of the temple is another smaller temple known as Asrom Moha Eysei. Built at the end of the 6th century in Zhenla Period, during the reign of King Pavavarman I, the temple has five windows and two doors. It is 5.5 meters square and 7 meters high, it is built in the
Indian style and features a double wall of basalt that faces north.

In 1992, a number of clergymen and nuns built a pagoda south of the hill. It is called Phnom Da pagoda.

Nearly three decades of war have left the road from Phnom Chiso to Angkor Borei district in poor condition; during the rainy season, flooding makes it impassable. Nevertheless, the site attracts foreign tourists and many Cambodians interested in researching Cambodian history during the Koh
Kork Thlork Period.

After 1979, the Takeo provincial authority constructed a canal, Canal 15, which links Takeo provincial town to Angkor Borei district. This has made access easier since the road between Angkor Borei and Phnom Da is still difficult to travel, especially during the rainy season, when it floods.
 

Phnom Ta Mao (Zoo)
Phnom Ta Mao (Zoo) is located in Tro Pang Sap village, Tro Pang Sap commune, Ba Ti District, Takeo province. Phnom Tamao can be accessible by the National Road No 2 in 40-kilometre distance from Phnom Penh. Then turning right more five kilometers by a trail, it takes 45-minute drive from Phnom Penh. Phnom Ta Mao is a varied site consisting of temples, mountain, nature and a big zoo in Cambodia. Phnom Ta Mao has 2,500-hectar land area called forest-protected area; in this area, the Department of Forestry has taken 1,200-hectar land area for planning trees and 70-hectar land area for organizing zoo. The 70-hectar landarea consisting of five mountains namely: Phnom Ta Mao, Phnom Thmor Dos, Phnom Phdan Poan, Phnom Chhoy and Phnom Bang. Among the five mountains, two mountains have ancient temples are: - Ta Mao Temple (is located at Phnom Ta Mao): was built in 11th century during the reign of the king, Soryak Varman I dedicated to Brahmanism, the temple made of Thmor silt and red-solid brick, located on the peak of 30-meter mountain of Ta Mao, near Ta Mao pagoda. Now, the temple is damaged and is almost unrecognizable. - Thmor Dos Temple (is located at Phnom Thmor Dos): The temple is located on a 35-meter mountain of Thmor Dos, Northwest of Ta Mao temple and was built in 11th century. The temple made of Thmor silt mad red-solid brick. Now, most of the temples are damaged. The people want to go to this temple to worship than Ta Mao temple. In addition, Phnom Ta Mao has a big zoo in Cambodia; the zoo is under the supervision of the Department of Forestry, Ministry of Agriculture and has 84 varieties of animals and birds; two kinds of them are brought from abroad. - There are 150-fourfooted animals consisting of 38 kinds. - There are 300 birds consisting of 38 kinds. - There are 30 reptiles consisting of eight kinds. All these animals are brought here by the Ministry of Agriculture and by seizing from offenders who illegally traffic in wild animals through out Cambodia. To take care these animals, we need to expend US$ 120 per day for food, and 22 staff and workers are working there. The average number of tourists visiting Phnom Ta Mao is 500-600 visitors per week; but during the festivals, there are 7,000-8,000 visitors per week. The local people of four communes around the Phnom Ta Mao are earning money from selling food to tourists. We can extend package-tour program to the above two resorts because these resorts are the popular sites for local and international tourists, and their location is near Phnom Penh. As the sites can attract many tourists, we expect to lure investors to invest in tourist facilitation and constructing the trail from the national Road No 2 to the resorts. The Department of Forestry has a project on constructing an inside trail linking from Tonle Ba Ti to Phnom Ta Mao in Six-Kilometre distance.
 

Phnom Ta Moa
Phnom Ta Mao is located in Tropiang Sap Villag, Tropiang Sap commune, Bati district, about 40 kilometers south of Phnom Penh, off National Road No. 2. Turn right at the sign and travel another 5 kilometers down a dirt trail. The site features mountains, the biggest national zoo and ancient temples. There are five mountains at this site - Phnom Tamao, Phnom Thma Dos, Phnom Pdaov Pun, Phnom Chhoy and Phnom Bang. The entire site covers 2,500 hectares, most of it is the protected forest area. The Ministry of Agriculture's Department of Foresty has taken over 1,200 hectares for planting trees and the zoo.

Phnom Ta Mao National Zoo covers 70 hectares and is under the supervision of the department. It features 84 varieties of birds, quadrupeds and reptiles. The animals, which include alligators, elephants, lions, tigers and bears, were collected by the Ministry of Agriculture. Some were recovered from people illegally trafficking wildlife in Cambodia.

The two ancient temples of Phnom Tamao are:
Tamao Temple (Phnom Tamao)
Tamao temple was built in 11th century, during the reign of King Suryavarman I and Udayadityavarman II (AD 1050 - 1066) as a place for Brahmans to worship. Tamao Temple was made of silt stone and red solid brick, but is now nearly unrecognizable. The temple is located near Tamao pagoda on the top of Phnom Tamao, which is about 30 meters high.
Thma Dos Temple (Phnom Thma Dos)
Thma Dos Temple is nothwest of Phnom Tamao on the 35 meter-high Phnom Thma Dos. The temple was built in the 11th century and is constructed of silt stone and red solid brick. Much of the temple is 7.5 meters squar and 13 meters high. Its design is adapted from Khliang style. This temple is more popular with visitors than Tamao temple.
 

Ta Prohm Temple
This temple, adapted from Bayon Style, was built during the late 12th and early 13th centuries, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (AD 1181 - 1120) as a place of worship for Brahmans and Buddhists.

The temple is 42 meters long, 36 meters wide and 11 meters high. Today the temple body, the gallery, the wal, the gopura (gateway) and the moat surrounding the temple are heavily damaged. The temple was constructed of brick and laterite and devided into many rooms. The outsite wall is decorated with bas-reliefs illustrating the Brahman story about the celestial nymph. Insite the temple are five rooms and a 13th century Buddha statue that faces east.
 

Tonle Bati
Tonle Bati is a popular lake and picnic area that has bamboo shacks built out over the water that people can rent out for eating and whiling away the day. Its generally a weekend get-away spot, which means its nice and quiet during the week. Locals swim there, but the water does not look real inviting.

There are all kinds of food and drink stands that sell everything you need for a picnic along the lake. Note that there are tours that follow you when you arrive on weekends and try to get you to go to their own place. Its best to pass right by them and find a spot on your own. Check prices beforehand on everything they are famous for handing you an outrageously high bill when you depart.

Tonle Bati is a place of worship and features two ancient temples, Ta Promh and Yeay Peov, and a pagoda, Wat Tonle

 

Wat Phnom Khliang
Wat Phnom Khliang, a Buddhist pagoda built in 1753, is a natural cultural site located in Prey Slek commune, Trang district, about 12 kilometers south of Takeo provincial town near National Road 2. It is a popular place for taking oaths and praying. During the Khmer Rouge regime it was used as a hospital. The red gravel at the foot of the mountain was dug to repair and construct a nearby trail. The entire site covers 11 hectares, Phnom Kliang is the middle. The hill is 30 meters high, and at the top is a new pagoda built in 1992 sponsored by Prime Minister Hun Sen.

The site attracts mostly local visitor who are superstitious and who are looking for a nice place to relax. At the top of the mountain is a granite stone from which water flows all year. Local people believe that the stone is magical. Bati, which was built in 1576.

 

Yeay Pov Temple
Yeay Pov temple is behind Wat Tonle Bati, about 100 meters from Ta Prohm temple. Constructed of sandstone in the 12 century, it is 7 meters square and faces east.

Apart from the temple is a house on the bank of Tonle Bati, about 200 meters from the temple, that once was used by the royal family during holidays. Today this place houses the offices of Bati Tourism Company, which controls the 9.3 hectare site. The company has erected 48 resting cottages with zinc roofs and another 40 cottages with leaf roofs along the riverside. The company has also built nine restrooms, and other restrooms are available at local people's residences.

In additional, there is also a natural lake that is 7,000 meters long. During the dry season, the lake is 1,000 meters wide and 1 to 2.5 meters deep. During the rainy season, it swells to 1, 500 meters wide and is about 4 meters deep.

There is a fee to enter the site. The cost for cambodian is 1,000 riel (USD0.25) for motobikes and 2,000 riel (USD0.50) for cars. The fee for resting cottages is 5,000 riel (USD1.25) per cottage. Foreigners are charged USD2 per person. Food can be purchased at the site.

The site is very popular, attracting 500 to 600 Cambodians and 100 foreign visiter per week. During holidays and festivals, the number of visitors can reach 9,000 per week. The site also provide employment opportunities and a good living for the people of the nearby Thnal Teaksin and Tonle Bati villages.
 

 

 

 

 
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ͧѡ mr.Hotsia ç ç ѷ Richard Lustig