Dinner with Old Man Phufa

Dinner with Old Man Phufa in Phongsaly

After returning from an evening beer in downtown Phongsaly, my plan to rest a bit turned out to be impossible. mr.hotsia took out the laptop and found a strange WiFi signal here in Phongsaly. Although remote, there is still some signal in certain spots. I uploaded a new video to YouTube, checked emails, and monitored visitors to my website hotsia.com here. The result was still low traffic, which made a young person like me impatient, eager for the site to become popular quickly, promoting it so much that I forgot to rest.

The appointment was at 6 PM. I was excited to have dinner with Old Man Phufa at his old home, on the way up to Phufa Stupa, another popular tourist spot in Phongsaly. When I arrived, Old Woman Phufa was preparing dinner. I had bought half a kilo of fresh pork intending to make salty stir-fried pork for them, but it seemed she marinated and fried the pork herself. So I just ate.

Old Man and Old Woman's house belongs to the Chinese-Ho ethnic group who speak some Lao. I spoke simple Lao with them. This household has only two people; their children have grown up and started their own families. Sitting and eating at a genuine Phongsaly family’s home gave me a chance to hear old stories about Phongsaly that few people know.

Phongsaly is one of the slowest developing towns in Laos because it is remote and difficult to access. Most people here are highlanders, which has kept the town in darkness longer than others. Electricity only reached Phongsaly about ten years ago. Before that, Old Man and Old Woman lived traditionally, selling goods from the back of horses and leading horses to sell in distant forests outside town. Nowadays, horses are almost gone in Phongsaly, replaced by cars and electric lights.

The name "Phongsaly" comes from "Phong" meaning forest, and "Sali" which is the name of a tree species that once grew densely in this area. That is the origin of the town’s name.

Tonight’s dinner started with a glass or two of Phongsaly white liquor to warm up. Then Old Woman served sticky rice on plates for everyone to eat with chopsticks, following the Chinese-Ho style. My favorite dish was crispy fried pork dipped in Maggi sauce, the Thai-style Maggi sauce that amazingly still tastes great here.

A strange item I encountered this meal was a type of root Old Woman added to the plate. It tasted like galangal but didn’t suit my palate. I could only eat one stalk before putting it aside. Other dishes included boiled eggs, melon soup, and a simple omelet, all of which I enjoyed as a simple eater.

Sitting and eating at a genuine Phongsaly home, listening to local stories, was a perfect and deeper travel experience beyond just visiting tourist spots. After dinner, I watched Chinese TV with Old Man and Old Woman, which I didn’t understand at all. They patiently taught me vocabulary, showing a side of life here I had never seen anywhere else.

Around 8:30 PM, I said goodbye and returned to my accommodation in Phongsaly town. The streets were quiet with no cars or pedestrians. Phongsaly is peaceful and quiet early, reflecting the slow lifestyle here. Back at my lodging, I transferred photos from my camera to my computer and planned to stay another night. But due to very slow internet, working was inconvenient, so I decided to travel to Muang Ngoy the next day instead.

Phongsaly is a small town with a unique charm. If you visit with an open heart to listen to the people’s stories, I believe you will find a warmth that is hard to find elsewhere.

Routes and Travel in Phongsaly Province

Phongsaly is the northernmost province of Lao PDR. Traveling here is not easy but not impossible. Generally, tourists travel from Oudomsay city, the transportation hub of Oudomsay province near Phongsaly.

The bus from Oudomsay to Phongsaly takes several hours, passing through beautiful but winding mountain and forest roads. For more travel details,click to read How to Travel to Phongsalywhich I have written before.

Phongsaly bus station is about 4 kilometers from the main town, so you need to take another vehicle into town. For those wanting to explore nearby towns like Muang Khua, a transit town to northern Vietnam, or continue to Dien Bien Phu in Vietnam, planning is convenient.Read about traveling to Muang KhuaandTraveling from Muang Khua to Dien Bien Phuto prepare your trip information.

Atmosphere and Lifestyle of Phongsaly People

Phongsaly is home to various highland ethnic groups such as Lao Sung, Akha, Hmong, and Yao. Their lifestyle remains simple and closely connected to nature, unlike larger cities with more modern development.

Visiting and experiencing the simplicity of Phongsaly people, whether eating at Old Man and Old Woman’s home or walking through local markets with fresh and dried local products, feels like stepping back in time to authentic rural Laos.

For those interested in deeply studying and experiencing local culture, I recommend visiting highland villages in this province, tasting local food, and talking with elders. You will gain knowledge and experiences not found in typical tourist spots.

Videos and Additional Resources

For those who want to see clear images of Phongsaly’s atmosphere, mr.hotsia has recorded videos for you to watch.Phongsaly province, Phongsaly districtThese clips vividly show the views and lifestyle here.

Also, if interested in the view of Oudomsay city, an important transit point before Phongsaly, watch the clipUdomxai city view, morning view of Udomxai citywhich I filmed to give a clearer overview of this area.

Finally, for those who like simple fried egg dishes like me, I recommend the clipFried egg dipped in sticky ricewhich I made in Muang Khua. A simple dish but surprisingly delicious.

Summary of the Dinner Experience with Old Man Phufa

Having dinner with Old Man Phufa in Phongsaly is a travel experience I, mr.hotsia, will remember for a long time. The simple lifestyle of the elderly who maintain traditions, hearing local history from the people themselves, and enjoying spicy, heartwarming local food made this trip more meaningful than visiting ordinary tourist spots.

If you enjoy deep travel and want to experience real local life, Phongsaly is a destination not to miss. I recommend you experience this atmosphere yourself at least once.