Phongsali Phongsali 2014

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The old man Phu Fa no longer works at Phu Fa. I found his house by walking around. Today, accommodations in Phongsali have wifi. Although not very fast, it's enough to use Facebook and check email. Today, Phongsali has two ATMs that I saw. I tried withdrawing money with a Thai card without any problem. This trip, I walked more in town and did not visit ethnic villages as before. The view from the top of Phu Fa overlooking Phongsali town in the valley seems unchanged from three years ago.

Traveling to Phongsali today, most roads are almost good. There is a section near Chai town, Udom Chai district, a few kilometers under construction. The main road from Chai town to Nam Noi junction and then up to Phongsali is good, but the road is mountainous with many curves, ups and downs, similar to the route to Pai, so you cannot drive fast. When traveling to Phongsali, you usually stop for a meal at Pak Nam Noi, the junction to the right leading to the town (which continues to Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam). The bus leaves Udom Chai at 8:30 AM. You will have to stay one night in Udom Chai. The bus will arrive in Phongsali before evening.

However, if a large bus drives slowly and arrives late at night, Phongsali transport will have tuk-tuks to take you into town, which is 3-4 kilometers away, costing 40 baht per person. The fare from Udom Chai to Phongsali is 75,000 kip or 300 baht per person. Mr. Hotsia recommends buying food to eat on the bus because sometimes it stops for meals in the middle of nowhere with no shops or toilets, so you have to go to the forest. Accommodations in Phongsali include guesthouses and small hotels; I saw 5-6 places, but there may be more scattered around.

The recommended place to stay is the downtown area. I suggest staying near the tourism office. The guesthouse is a little to the right at the corner and has wifi named Pinekham Douang Naly guesthouse. I did not stay here the first night because I didn’t know it was affordable and had wifi. The first night I stayed at San Saly Guesthouse, which is beyond downtown near the bus queue to outside town, on the right side. This place is good and clean, 500 baht per night.

The only downside is no internet wifi, but the accommodation is good. Phongsali lodging is not hot, so you don’t need to use air conditioning and waste money. I’m not sure if they have air-conditioned rooms; every time I stayed, I used a regular room and still needed a thick blanket. Read more about accommodations in Phongsali. There are not many restaurants in Phongsali. For breakfast, I saw two pho shops open. The first is on the main road about 100 meters back the way we came from Udom Chai. Most locals buy food at the market to eat at home.

Another shop sells Lao-style rice noodles in the morning market. Both are delicious; I recommend the market shop so you can watch locals shopping. For lunch, after descending from the top of Phu Fa, I stopped to eat som tam (papaya salad) on the way down. For dinner, there are only two options: Chinese food and the guesthouse restaurant. Phongsali is a small town; you can ask locals for directions and reach everywhere by walking a little, or click the GPS coordinates I posted above the photos. Read more about Phongsali food. Early 2014, when cruising to Muang Khua, they were building a Nam Ou dam at Samphan town, halfway between Ha Sa, Phongsali, and Muang Khua, also in Phongsali district.

We had to take a minibus parked in town to Ha Sa pier, 3 kilometers away. The minibus leaves at 8:00 AM, and the bus from the queue to Ha Sa leaves at 8:30 AM. It takes about an hour to reach Ha Sa village. We bought a boat ticket to Samphan town for 55,000 kip or about 220 baht. We had to transfer minibuses because the Nam Ou dam blocks the way to Samphan, then buy another boat ticket from Samphan to Muang Khua.

We arrived in Muang Khua around 4:00 PM. For those continuing to Muang Ngoy or Nong Khiao, if the boat arrives early and there are many people, the boat continues immediately. If few people, you have to wait until the next day. Activities in Phongsali for foreigners mostly involve trekking to ethnic villages, but I did not go. I walked around town, climbed Phu Fa, strolled near the central town pond, visited the morning market, and ate delicious local food like the Phongsali people. Staying two nights in Phongsali suits me. The first night, I arrived after dark.

Early the next morning, I went to the market to eat morning pho, then returned to the room to use the bathroom, shower, brush teeth, or continue climbing Phu Fa. On the way down, I stopped to eat authentic Lao papaya salad. Near the Phu Fa trail, there is a village with beautiful stone-paved floors worth visiting. Don’t forget to go. In the evening, try Chinese food; it’s delicious. Walk around town a bit. If you like Lao beer, have a little. Then rest early because you have to wake up early to try the boat to Muang Khua. That’s about it for Mr. Hotsia’s 2014 Phongsali trip.

mr.hotsia January 2014 Enjoyable trip Phongsali bus station bus schedule Phongsali town at night Phongsali night Boun Neua Bus station Phongsali Boun Neua bus station Phongsali girl Phongsali morning market Phongsali ຜົ້ງສາລີ Phongsali Phongsali student 21 40 10.11 N, 102 5 20.796 E GPS coordinates (POI) Phongsali bus station schedule 2014 21 40 10.325 N, 102 5 21.03 E 21 41 1.019 N, 102 6 8.064 E

21 41 0.281 N, 102 6 3.744 E Students going to school 21 40 58.175 N, 102 6 6.533 E Locals growing vegetables for consumption 21 40 56.604 N, 102 6 21.492 E Another stone road worth walking 21 40 57.299 N, 102 6 22.853 E 21 41 8.387 N, 102 6 30.593 E I am walking up above 21 41 19.703 N, 102 6 30.474 E 21 41 19.637 N, 102 6 30.461 E 21 41 19.968 N, 102 6 30.389 E Enjoying the trip with Mr. Hotsia Phongsali food and dining

21 41 5.339 N, 102 6 20.027 E 21 40 56.309 N, 102 6 20.531 E 21 40 56.111 N, 102 6 20.567 E The accommodation where I stayed has wifi 21 40 56.399 N, 102 6 4.601 E Guesthouse in Phongsali Students going to school 21 40 57.893 N, 102 6 47.016 E Phongsali girl going to Muang Khua with me 21 41 6.947 N, 102 6 47.321 E Bus from town to Ha Sa 21 41 54.953 N, 102 12 41.891 E 21 41 0.863 N, 102 6 7.949 E 21 40 59.213 N, 102 6 6.737 E 21 41 0.461 N, 102 6 2.885 E

21 41 0.654 N, 102 6 0.545 E Roadside market on the way up Phu Fa 21 40 55.799 N, 102 6 20.831 E 21 40 56.388 N, 102 6 4.608 E Central town pond, a little past the accommodation 21 41 5.777 N, 102 6 13.541 E Students going to school Bus from Phongsali to Ha Sa

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