Backpacking Southern Cambodia 24/41: The Ghost Town of Sihanoukville - Searching for Khmer Food, None Found So Survived on Grilled Pork Skewers

Backpacking Southern Cambodia 24/41: The Ghost Town of Sihanoukville - Searching for Khmer Food, None Found So Survived on Grilled Pork Skewers

When talking about Sihanoukville, many might think of Cambodia's beautiful seaside town with a peaceful atmosphere very different from our Pattaya. But this time, mr.hotsia wants to share the real story from traveling in this town on a day that felt like a “ghost town” because certain situations made local restaurants and food spots surprisingly quiet.

I traveled from Trat through Ban Hat Lek checkpoint crossing to Koh Kong province, then took a bus to Sihanoukville following the route I previously described inTraveling from Trat to SihanoukvilleIt took about 3-4 hours excluding waiting time at the checkpoint, passing by the sea and the town that was once lively but now looked somewhat deserted.

Sihanoukville: The Seaside Town That’s Not the Same

Sihanoukville or Kampong Som, Cambodia’s top seaside town where I have visited several times, always offers a unique peaceful charm.Sihanoukville Travel InformationThis time I stayed at Sihanouk Time Share Hotel, located not far from the beach, about a 10-minute walk. However, due to unstable electricity, power outages were frequent even in this large hotel.

During my visit, Sihanoukville seemed to have lost its role as a tourist city, which was heartbreaking. Most restaurants were closed, shops were not bustling as before. So I decided to explore the fresh market and night market to find authentic Khmer food that still had some life.

Searching for Khmer Food in Sihanoukville Market

Sihanoukville Market is one of my favorite places to visit in this town.Sihanoukville MarketLocated in the city center next to a school, it has both fresh and dry markets selling essentials and fresh food. I woke up early and saw Khmer students walking to school with teachers lined up to welcome them orderly. It was simple but charming in daily life.

But when it came to food, it wasn’t as easy as I thought because many food stalls that used to offer many choices were now only a few open, mostly chicken rice porridge and fried noodles, simple dishes popular among locals in the morning.

No Khmer Food Available, Had to Survive on Grilled Pork Skewers

Since most restaurants were closed and the market was quiet, I walked the streets looking for authentic Khmer food but found nothing fresh or appealing as before. In the end, I relied mainly on grilled pork skewers sold on the street. Khmer grilled pork here is cooked over charcoal with a delicious aroma. Though simple, it gave me energy to continue my journey.

The grilled pork I ate on the street differs from ours because they serve it with a fried duck egg, a unique breakfast feature of Southern Khmer cuisine that I had seen before inFood and Restaurants in SihanoukvilleI recommend eating this type of food fresh off the grill because I once had food poisoning from eating old grilled pork skewers.

Sihanoukville and the Simple Lifestyle That Still Remains

Although today Sihanoukville looks quiet and like a ghost town in some areas, if you observe closely, local life continues simply. Children go to school, teachers are strict, street vendors carry goods on their heads selling fruits and food by the beach. It’s a scene I rarely see in other towns and is one of the charms of this town I want everyone to experience.

If anyone wants to truly experience Sihanoukville, walking the markets and trying local food or visiting the beach where vendors carry goods on their heads is a rare sight. I have written about it inSihanoukville BeachesandKhmer Beach Massage in Sihanoukvillewhich is another recommended activity to try.

Preparing Before Visiting Sihanoukville

Before visiting Sihanoukville, mr.hotsia recommends planning accommodation in advance because this town still has limited information for Thai tourists. I stayed atSihanoukville Time Share Hotelwhich is located in town near the market and amenities, within walking distance to the beach, affordable price, and I suggest bringing cash in USD as it is more widely accepted here than Cambodian riel.

For those who want to experience the real atmosphere of a Cambodian seaside town and see the traditional Southern Khmer lifestyle, Sihanoukville is a very interesting choice. Although it’s no longer a bustling tourist city, the simplicity and sincerity of the people here will leave you unforgettable impressions.

Finally, mr.hotsia would like to share a short video I recorded on this trip to show the real atmosphere of the ghost town Sihanoukville on the day I visited.Backpacking Southern Cambodia 24/41: The Ghost Town of Sihanoukville - Searching for Khmer Food, None Found So Survived on Grilled Pork SkewersIn case anyone wants to see more of the atmosphere.