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Laos, Phongsaly Province, Boat trip from Hat Sa to Muang Khua (hat sa to muang khua)
Project gen by hotsia
Boat trip from Hat Sa to Muang Khua (hat sa to muang khua) along the Ou River. Boat trip from Hat Sa to Muang Khua (hat sa to muang khua). To reach Phongsaly (make sure you can pronounce it), visit Phu Fa Stupa in Phongsaly, enjoy a meal at a local Phongsaly home, travel from Muang Khua to Dien Bien Phu, Phongsaly Bus Station 2014, guesthouses in Phongsaly, boats from Hat Sa to Muang Khua, Phongsaly morning market 2014. While the Mekong River is the main western waterway of Laos flowing through Pak Beng and Pak Ou to Luang Prabang,
it has become the main travel route for tourists worldwide heading to Luang Prabang. On the eastern side, there is the Ou River (see the Northern Laos River map, click here), originating in the northernmost part of Laos in Phongsaly Province. The eastern waterway was historically important for communication between Phongsaly, Muang Khua, and Luang Prabang. However, the Ou River water route is becoming less significant over time.
This is because Lao people no longer prefer boat travel as before, opting for cars instead since they are much cheaper. So before this boat route disappears, I want to be one of the last tourists to share the atmosphere along the Ou River with the world. There are two types of boats used on the Ou River. The first is a motorboat I used from Hat Sa to Muang Khua, powered by a Japanese Kubota engine, controlled by a steering wheel at the front.
The other type I saw is a traditional dugout canoe used by locals for fishing in the middle of the Ou River. These dugout canoes are made from a single tree trunk. Such boats are almost extinct in Thailand nowadays because large trees are hard to find and it’s more profitable to use the wood for other purposes. But in Laos, I saw mostly dugout canoes. Laos has abundant forests. Cruising the Ou River and observing the riverside lifestyle reminded me of Thailand’s past when I was a child living in Bang Bo, paddling to school and bathing in the canal.
Still, I have never seen such dugout canoes before. Navigating near rocks and strong currents is like rafting on the Ou River. The Ou River is narrow and fast-flowing in its upper reaches, with rocky banks as the river runs through high limestone mountains. Sometimes there are sandy beaches where villagers settle. The river width varies, sometimes very narrow, causing strong currents. Boats must speed up to avoid hitting rocks.
Boats pass very close to rocks at many points. Besides the thrill of dodging rocks, the Ou River has many rapids, which are the river’s big drops. These rapids are exciting because the boat dips with the water level changes, splashing passengers occasionally. This is the fun and charm of cruising the Ou River. Don’t worry about the rapids because the boat captain is very professional.
The boat driver is experienced and knows which spots are safe and which have submerged rocks. He reads the water surface to find the easiest path. During the one-hour trip from Hat Sa to Muang Khua, I didn’t see any boat hit rocks, so safety is assured. Locals sell fish along the route at 35,000 kip per kilogram (about 140 baht). When the water is calm, villagers use nets and hooks to catch fish for eating or selling.
Fish are not always abundant in the Ou River. Only during early rainy season do fish swim freely, allowing villagers to catch large fish like those in the photos. Normally, only small fish are caught. At the end of the rainy season, locals catch Ou River shrimp, which are delicious and large. Villagers know the shrimp season well and prepare traps in advance.
As the boat passes villages, locals wave to sell fish to the boat driver, who buys them to sell to restaurants in Muang Khua. The fish are tied by their gills with strings and kept in the river. When selling, they use an old-fashioned balance scale with weights. I haven’t seen such scales in Thailand for a long time. When the boat stops, children’s performances begin, mostly diving and playing on the sand.
In villages where the boat doesn’t stop, children still wave to greet us. Imagine how rare it is for boats like this to pass, maybe only twice a day, so greetings are important. The Ou River cruise also passes small waterfalls flowing into the river, showcasing natural beauty. Riverside people still use the river water for bathing. In the evening, men, women, and children come to bathe in the Ou River. Lao people live closely connected to the river, similar to some rural Thai communities.
The riverside lifestyle is simple. Many villages have no electricity, making activities difficult after dark except sleeping. Some villages generate electricity themselves using water turbines powered by the Ou River, connecting wires from the river to the village. Larger villages have several turbines. I passed by and thought I would stay once at a local house by the Ou River. Another common sight along the Ou River is the 'white buffalo.' Locals raise buffaloes freely in forests and gardens.
By the river, buffaloes come to cool off in the Ou River. From what I saw, every herd has a white buffalo, which is rare in Thailand. If anyone from the countryside has many, please let me know. Get ready to jump into the water for the show. The performance is starting! Enjoy the rapids, take photos, watch fishing, and soon we arrive at Muang Khua. Muang Khua is a transit town to Dien Bien Phu border crossing into Vietnam. The town has Chinese and Vietnamese businesspeople.
Muang Khua is a small town with riverside accommodations and affordable guesthouses in the village. There is a small bank for exchanging Thai baht and US dollars. Electricity is supplied by generators from 6:30 PM to 10:00 PM. From Muang Khua, a bus goes east to Dien Bien Phu border, about [distance not specified]. I arrived in Muang Khua around 1:30 PM and saw a group of foreigners boarding a boat to Muang Ngoy, so I decided to buy a ticket to Muang Ngoy immediately.
I quickly bought a ticket, snacks, and fruit, then jumped on the last boat to Muang Ngoy. The boat fare from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoy is 400 baht per person. The trip takes 5 hours. I left at 2 PM and expect to arrive in Muang Ngoy around dusk. Next trip, I will show you the beautiful views before reaching Muang Ngoy at twilight. Check the travel map here for my current location. Map of Ou River rafting from Hat Sa, Phongsaly to Muang Khua and Muang Ngoy.
