Kalaymyo

Kalaymyo, a traditional border town in Chin State, Myanmar

If you are someone who loves adventurous travel to truly experience local life, not just tourist spots that are artificially created, Kalaymyo (Kale; Kalaymyo, Kalemyo) in Sagaing Division of Myanmar is a town I, Mr. Hotsia, would recommend you to experience yourself. This town is about a 10-hour drive from Monywa, or during high water season, you can take a boat from Monywa via the Myittha River. This route is an important connection between Myanmar and India because the road from Kalay to the Tamu border checkpoint, only 165 kilometers away, is in good condition and allows comfortable two-way traffic.

I traveled to this town on March 17, 2016, with KBZ Airlines from Mandalay. The flight took about 1 hour, and the ticket cost around 110 USD. The flight attendants were very beautiful. This airline is the most convenient choice if you plan to travel here.Hakha TownChin State via Kalay, because taking a bus from Mandalay through Monywa takes about 18 hours, and if you want to continue to Hakha, it takes another 12 hours. I recommend staying in Kalaymyo first, then continuing by bus for more convenience.

Accommodation and Atmosphere in Kalaymyo

Kalaymyo is not a large town. There are about 5 hotels for tourists, and from my inquiries, only 3 accept foreign tourists. Accommodation prices are quite high, starting from 40 USD per night. I stayed at Taug Za Lat Hotel, located opposite Kalay Airport, costing 48 USD per night. The rooms were reasonably clean and suitable for resting after a long journey.

This town is in a valley with no tall buildings. There are two main markets: the morning market and the evening market. The morning market sells shrimp paste rice along the roadside opposite the market entrance. The evening market along the road has Khao Soi and Shan-style noodles popular among locals. Near the Majesty Hotel where I stayed before heading to the Indian border, there are bars and night food stalls with affordable prices, good taste, and very fresh draft beer.

Night Candle Market: A Fascinating Way of Life

What impressed me most in Kalaymyo was the evening market atmosphere without official electricity. The town still uses generator power in some areas. Electricity from Hakha and Falam is expected to be connected soon. At night, the market has no electric lights, but vendors light candles throughout the market. The soft yellow candlelight shines on the stalls, fresh vegetables, fruits, and change given to customers, making the market look beautiful and charmingly vintage, like walking through a living old photograph.

In this market, you will see locals dressed in beautiful, distinctive Chin patterned clothes. I recommend buying some as souvenirs or wearing them yourself because these patterns strongly represent the culture and pride of the local people.

Travel and Connections to Other Towns in Chin State

Besides being a gateway to the Indian border, Kalaymyo is also an important connection point for traveling to Hakha, the capital of Chin State, most conveniently. The bus ride from Kalay to Hakha takes about 12 hours. For those wanting to exploreHakha Townwith its unique culture and nature, I recommend flying into Kalay first, then continuing by bus to save time and energy.

If you travel by public bus from Mandalay through Monywa (where I have recommended hotels inHotel Recommendations in Monywa), it takes about 18 hours to reach Kalay. This is a long and tiring journey, but if you want to experience local life and the atmosphere of a border town up close, Kalaymyo is a very worthwhile destination.

Local Food and Snacks at Kalaymyo Market

Food here will not disappoint. I tried Khao Soi and noodles at the evening market. The flavors are rich with the aroma of Shan spices, different from typical Burmese food. There are also some Burmese restaurants, and importantly, prices are very cheap compared to the taste.

If you want to try something unusual, I recommend tasting boiled offal with corn in the Chin style from Hakha (which I have written about in the articleChin State, Myanmar). The taste is fragrant, sweet, and not fishy, a local favorite dish of the Chin people.

Summary of Impressions from Mr. Hotsia

Kalaymyo feels like stepping back in time to our home decades ago when electricity was not widely used. Life here is still simple, and people are sincere. The night candle market I strolled through was enchanting and unforgettable. The vendors' conversations, the smell of fresh food, and the warm candlelight made me feel that this town is still lively, even though it is a small and peaceful town.

If you want to experience a different Myanmar from big cities like Mandalay or Yangon, Kalaymyo is a town not to be missed. It is also a gateway for further travel to Chin State and the Indian border checkpoint.

Don't forget to visit the morning and evening markets, try local food, and find beautiful Chin patterned clothes as souvenirs. I guarantee you will have a unique and deeper travel experience than ever before.