ไทย
English
Laos, Xiangkhouang Province
Project gen by hotsia
The Bombed City of Xiangkhouang: Many articles about the American bombing in Laos during the Indochina War describe heartbreaking stories that bring tears to readers. The legacy left to all Lao people is that each person inherits one ton or a thousand kilograms of unexploded bombs. I have shared stories about the war in Laos and the UXO bomb disposal work below. Thanks to the author, Mr. Songrit Phonngern from Nation, for this.
We will present this without stressing you too much about the bombs, as it has been many years since then. Laos has opened its doors to tourists for several years. Let's look from a tourist's perspective and gather good experiences from Xiangkhouang. Xiangkhouang is a northern province of Laos bordering Vietnam. To the north is Sam Neua, where Vieng Xay, the stronghold of the Lao military leadership, is located. This made Xiangkhouang one of the provinces heavily carpet-bombed almost everywhere.
Three million tons of bombs were dropped from the sky over five countries. Thailand was also used as a base for American planes that dropped bombs on Laos and Vietnam. Bomb displays can be seen at accommodations. Many unexploded bombs still exist in forests and fields and are found daily. An international organization called UXO handles this work. I had the chance to talk with locals working for UXO who earn about 4,000 baht per month. Every day they go out to search for bombs and find them daily.
Finding bombs in Laos is easier than catching fish. I will write another article about how they search for bombs. It is well known that anyone visiting Xiangkhouang must not enter areas not yet declared bomb-free by UXO, as you could easily step on a bomb. Those who have been to Thung Hai Hin can imagine that UXO has posted signs declaring the area bomb-free, but other non-residential areas remain dangerous.
Anyone traveling to Xiangkhouang must strictly stay on the paths. Before UXO arrived, locals encountered bombs and, out of ignorance, tried to saw or burn them, causing injuries, amputations, and deaths. Survivors inherited bombs used as decorations for homes, restaurants, and accommodations. Bomb remnants were used as house posts, cattle barn pillars, decorative items, or kept in display cabinets.
Some even made boats from bomb parts (see bomb boat) because these bomb remnants are more durable than ordinary wood and iron. At Dok Khun Hotel, if you think about the mindset of Lao people during the bombing, it is heartbreaking. Locals had to lie to their children, saying, "The bombs were dropped to kill deer and animals so there would be food to eat daily." Children learned to accept the sound of explosions as normal; if there were no explosions, it would be strange—how else would they eat? Mothers had to lie to their children daily.
But as time passed and the war ended, the bomb remnants remain, reminding Lao people every time they see them. For Thais, Lao people fully understand that Thailand was also used by America as a bombing base, but as close neighbors, they do not hold anger toward Thais. Some Lao feel negatively toward the nation that harmed them (America). Some Lao friends told me they do not talk to Americans and even avoid looking at or acknowledging them.
American tourists in Laos are rare; those who come often say they are from Europe. American tourists themselves know and rarely visit Laos and Vietnam. We Thai should be aware of this to build understanding and avoid sensitive topics, especially in provinces bordering North Vietnam and North Vietnam itself. When traveling there, it is important to understand this well. (North Vietnam was aligned with China and the Soviet Union; South Vietnam was aligned with America.)
Alright, let's leave the heavy topics behind and look at Xiangkhouang today. When I arrived, the accommodation's vehicle contacted me and picked me up. The lodging here costs only a few hundred baht, which is cheap. Xiangkhouang city has internet, electricity, and water supply, though some hotels may have weak water flow at night, so it's better to shower in the evening. There are only a few made-to-order food shops in Xiangkhouang.
The only restaurant I saw tourists dining at was just one. Food prices here are not as expensive as in Luang Prabang. Most tourists buy tours from Luang Prabang, stay one night in Xiangkhouang, visit Thung Hai Hin, then return. They also try tank rides in Xiangkhouang. Xiangkhouang is the province name; the city where people stay is called Muang Phak. Phon Sawan is another old city before moving to Muang Phak. If you ask at the Luang Prabang bus station about buses to Thung Hai Hin Xiangkhouang, ask if there is a bus to Phon Sawan.
When arriving at Phon Sawan, it is actually Muang Phak (Pine Tree) in Xiangkhouang Province. Tours to Thung Hai Hin are sold for about 500 baht per person, shared in groups of seven. Muang Phak or Xiangkhouang, in restaurants, accommodations, and homes, is decorated with bomb shells, creating a beautiful and unique look. The hotel I stayed at was opposite the small bus station and had more bombs than other hotels—from the front, inside, display cabinets, upstairs, to the balcony. Besides bombs, there were machine guns, bullets, and various war items.
The bombs shown in the pictures are bomb casings or bomb rails. Inside are many small round bombs. During the trip to Thung Hai Hin, the guide took us to a local home where bomb rails were used as house posts and cattle barn pillars. Besides exploring the bomb city, we also saw tank wrecks. This tank is parked by the roadside, exposed to sun and rain, neglected by many. However, I learned they plan to build a war museum to preserve all war-related items there.
Come to Xiangkhouang to see the bomb city. Just walking around and seeing bomb shells on the streets is worth it, as you won't easily find this anywhere else. If another war breaks out anywhere, you will no longer see bomb relics like this because bomb and war technology has advanced greatly. Besides exploring bombs, you can also visit Thung Hai Hin... Mr.Hotsia recommends hotels if you want to stay and visit Thung Hai Hin.
This bomb set is right in front of my accommodation, a large set with many bombs. Information about the Indochina War from Wikipedia: The Second Indochina War (called the Vietnam War in the West and the American War in Vietnam) began due to conflicts between the South Vietnamese government supported by the US and the North Vietnamese forces, including the Viet Cong and the North Vietnamese Army, now the Vietnam People's Army. It started in the late 1950s and ended in 1975.