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Laos, Xiangkhouang Province
Project gen by hotsia
Phonsavan, Plain of Jars, thrilling travel in Xiangkhouang, the bombed city of Xiangkhouang, Plain of Jars (Plain of), Lao Rocket Festival tradition, Phonsavan Bus Station, stay at Night Guesthouse Xiangkhouang, supporting thrilling AEC travel, bombed city of Xiangkhouang (2010). Many articles about the American bombing in Laos during the Indochina War describe the events with deep sadness, moving readers to tears.
A legacy passed down to all Lao people: each Lao person inherits about one ton or a thousand kilograms of bombs. The stories of war in Laos and the work of UXO bomb clearance are presented below. Thanks to the author, Mr. Songrit Phonngern from Nation. Here, we aim not to stress you too much about the bombs, as the war ended long ago and Laos has been open to tourists for years. Let's look at it from a traveler's perspective.
Let's gather good experiences from Xiangkhouang. Xiangkhouang is a northern province of Laos bordering Vietnam. To the north is Sam Neua, where Vieng Xai city is located, a stronghold of the Lao army leaders. This made Xiangkhouang one of the provinces heavily carpet-bombed almost everywhere. Three million tons of bombs were dropped from the sky over five countries. Thailand was also used as a base for American planes dropping bombs on Laos and Vietnam.
Many unexploded bombs still remain in forests and fields, found daily. An international agency called UXO handles this. I had the chance to talk with locals working for UXO; they earn about 4,000 baht per month. Every day they go out to search for bombs and find them daily. Finding bombs in Laos is easier than catching fish. I will write another article about how they do bomb clearance. It is well known that visitors to Xiangkhouang must not enter UXO zones.
These areas are not yet declared completely bomb-free because you might easily step on a bomb. Those who have been to the Plain of Jars can imagine that UXO has posted signs declaring the Plain of Jars area bomb-free. Other non-residential areas remain dangerous. Tourists in Xiangkhouang must strictly stay on marked paths. Before UXO came, locals encountered bombs and, out of ignorance, tried to saw or burn them, causing injuries and deaths.
Many survivors inherited bombs used as decorations for homes, restaurants, and accommodations. Bomb casings have been used as house pillars, cattle barn posts, decorative items, or displayed in cabinets. Some even made boats from bomb casings (see bomb boat) because these casings are more durable than ordinary wood or steel. The mindset of Lao people during the bombing was heartbreaking; parents lied to their children saying,
"They dropped bombs to kill deer and animals so there would be food each day." Children accepted the explosions as normal; without them, it would be strange. No explosions meant no food. Mothers lied daily. Though the war ended, bomb remnants remain, reminding Lao people every time they see them. Lao people know well that Thailand was also a base for American bombing, but as close neighbors, they do not hold resentment toward Thai people.
Some Lao feel negatively toward the nation that bombed them (America). Some Lao friends told me they avoid talking to Americans, do not look at or acknowledge them. American tourists in Laos are few; those who come often say they are from Europe. American tourists themselves know this and rarely visit Laos or Vietnam. Thai travelers should understand this to avoid misunderstandings and be sensitive when visiting.
Especially in provinces bordering North Vietnam and North Vietnam itself, visitors must understand this well (North Vietnam was aligned with China-Soviet, South Vietnam with America). Now, let's move past the serious topic and see Xiangkhouang today. Upon arrival, the accommodation arranged transport to pick me up. Lodging here costs only a few hundred baht, considered cheap. Xiangkhouang city has internet, electricity, and water supply.
However, some hotels have weak water pressure at night, so it's safer to shower in the evening. Xiangkhouang has only a few eateries; I saw tourists dining at just one place. Food prices here are cheaper than in Luang Prabang. Most tourists buy tours from Luang Prabang, stay one night in Xiangkhouang, visit the Plain of Jars, then return. Xiangkhouang is the province name; the city where people stay is called Muang Phak. Phonsavan is an older city before moving to Muang Phak.
If asking at Luang Prabang bus station about going to the Plain of Jars in Xiangkhouang, ask if there is a bus to Phonsavan. Actually, Phonsavan is Muang Phak (Pine City) in Xiangkhouang Province. Tours to the Plain of Jars cost about 500 baht per person, shared in groups of seven. In Muang Phak or Xiangkhouang, restaurants, accommodations, and homes are decorated with bomb shells, creating a unique and beautiful look. The hotel I stayed at was opposite the small bus station and had more bombs displayed than others—from the entrance to inside, display cabinets, and balconies.
Besides bombs, there are machine guns, bullets, and various war items. The bombs shown in photos are bomb casings or bomb rails, containing many small round bombs inside. During the trip to the Plain of Jars, the guide took us to a local house where bomb rails were used as house and cattle barn pillars. Besides visiting the bombed city, we also saw a tank wreck. This tank sits exposed to sun and rain by the roadside, ignored by passersby.
However, I learned they plan to build a war museum to preserve all war-related items there. Visiting Xiangkhouang to see the bombed city and walking among bomb shells on the streets is worthwhile, as such sights are rare. If another war occurs anywhere, such bomb relics will likely not be seen again due to advanced bomb and war technology. Besides bomb sightseeing, Xiangkhouang also offers the Plain of Jars... Mr.Hotsia
If you plan to stay and visit the Plain of Jars, mr.hotsia recommends hotels. Full travel info for Xiangkhouang: Mr. Hotsia traveled here before, from Phonsavan to Sam Neua, then from Laos to Vietnam before taking a bus from Hanoi to Vientiane. After 4 years, I returned to Xiangkhouang. Natural attractions remain the same: Plain of Jars, bomb villages.